Red Wine

Previously, the best-known evocation of Cabernet was in the form of traditional claret from Bordeaux - and for decades the definition of a good claret was tannin, a bit more tannin, perhaps some acidity and a bit more tannin. Ageability was what they were after, not fruit.

The Australians took Cabernet and made its fruit shine forth, at a fraction of the price. Many of Bordeaux's winemakers have now followed suit, which means a good Cabernet, whether from the Old or New World, has proper pure, concentrated blackcurrant fruit flavours and lovely intense deep colouring and, depending on how much you've splashed out, a whole lot more besides. There's no doubt about it, Cabernet has a great ability to age if handled correctly. That means it should have a good tannic structure, a decent balance of acidity and lots of sweet, rich, luscious fruit flavours - all in perfect harmony. The problem with a lot of Cabernet from both Old and New Worlds is that it can be quite 'green', or 'leafy', which usually denotes that it's been picked and pressed too young.

Above all, though, Cabernet is a team player - at its best when mixed with a drop of Merlot, or Cabernet Franc, the two other main varieties traditionally grown in Bordeaux. This classic mix has also been exported globally, and, while you'll find some 'pure' Cabernet, the vast majority usually has these two characters as a 'support network'.

But when Pinot Noir is on form, either in its Burgundy guise or as one of the principal grapes used in making champagne (yes, a red wine grape used to make a sparkling white), then it is sublime.To champagne it adds richness, body and style. As a red from Burgundy, it produces some of the most complex and exciting flavours that you're likely to find in a wine. Which is why so many countries outside France continue to experiment with it, in the hope of emulating great Burgundy. The Australians have had a stab at it, as have the New Zealand wine fraternity, making some of the best Pinots outside Burgundy. The Californians play hit and miss with it; South Africa makes some good, basic, fruit-driven versions; and there's a small enclave of winemakers in Oregon who get pretty close to perfection. But, at the end of the day, it really is Burgundy where the best Pinot Noir comes from. The problem is, it's disgracefully expensive, and, even in a great vintage, with a great producer behind it, it can occasionally come across as simply average.

The problem with Merlot is that it is a little more fragile than Cabernet, and not as suited to such a wide variety of climates. This means that, while the world has attempted to re-create its success in St-Emilion and Pomerol, the results have not always been quite what they should have been.

But, when it's on form, it's a winner, which is why it's also beginning to find popularity in places such as Italy and Spain -two countries that have traditionally shunned France's grape base in favour of their own. Again, however, it can be prone to the same 'greenness' that Cabernet can suffer if picked too early. And, like Cabernet, it's usually at its best with a little help from its friends. Even the tiniest drop of Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc can add that extra bit of life to a good Merlot.