Riesling
Riesling is a classic German grape variety that has spread itself across the globe with the same enthusiasm as Chardonnay but not necessarily the same success. If Riesling is the Giant Haystacks. It may not always triumph, but in stature and potential it's always been the professional's favourite.
Germany is of course the major source for Riesling - though a lot of the Riesling that has made its way over here in the past has been in the form of Liebfraumilch or Piesporter, so the impression given has never been the most positive one. However there are both dry and sweet versions produced in Germany and in neighbouring Alsace in France that would surprise the average wine drinker with their power, finesse and downright deliciousness. Elsewhere in the world, Riesling is being picked up as the newest next big thing - with Australia, New Zealand and even California and Chile getting in on the act, and producing some mouthwatering versions.
One of the delights of Riesling is that again, like Chardonnay, because it is planted in so many different places, the range of flavours and characteristics is wide. From Germany you can expect dry Rieslings with a slightly mineral (a bit like biting on slate) or oily texture to them, while the sweeter versions develop more honeyed, nutty tones. From the likes of Australia or New Zealand you get very limey, citrus-fruit-driven styles. In all, though, the sign of a good Riesling, dry or sweet, is a good chunk of bite or zing - otherwise known as acidity, but easier to understand as that zip at the finish of a white wine that lets you know there's life in it. It's also, incidentally, what makes Riesling a very versatile food wine.
Pronunciation: Rees-ling.
Where do I find it? Germany, Austria, Alsace, Australia, New Zealand, California, Hungary.
What does it taste like? Firmly citrus-based, so that's freshly cut lemon and lime fruit flavours, though some can have a more green-apple quality to them and in the New World you can even get the odd hint of pineapple creeping in.lt is almost never oaked because it is such an aromatic variety, so it's great if you like unoaked whites.
Tell me something I didn't know: Two decades ago in Australia lots of winemakers ripped up Riesling vines and replanted them with Chardonnay. Twenty years on they're doing exactly the reverse. It's a funny old world.