This system has divided France into a series of 'appellations', each of which is governed by strict controls over grapes planted, methods used to grow them, yields, even alcohol strengths. The aim is to protect legitimate producers from poor imitations and ensure that the consumer receives the best there is within a specific appellation.

It sounds confusing - and sometimes it is - but once you get a handle on it it's relatively straightforward. The confusing part comes in knowing how appellations apply in quality terms. The basic classification for Bordeaux, for example, is AC Bordeaux.To qualify for AC Medoc (an appellation within Bordeaux) the quality level and restrictions are higher - and likewise with the appellation of Ma rgaux, within Medoc. If you like, it's a simple step ladder to the highest quality. Knowing which is the bottom and which is the top step is the complicated bit.

I'm not going to be able to do justice to France in a few paragraphs-besides, others have done it in far more detail over many more paragraphs than this. But, if this gives you a taster for the country's wines, you can always buy a book specifically on the wines of France - indeed, that goes for most of the countries covered here.

The problem with Italy, however, is that such excitement comes at a price. It does have some heavy hitters in the under £5.99 bracket, but, in the main, the best Italian wines that make their way over to these shores are invariably above £7 or £8 and frequently in the £10-25 range. That makes it a hard sell for the average drinker, but for anyone who's beginning to get passionate about discovering new regions, and in particular new grape varieties, Italy really is the bee's knees.

Italy itself works on a rather complex system fashioned after France's Appellation Controlee system: it's known as the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) system. It's not terribly successful, and can be downright confusing, which is why I've concentrated on principal regions, styles of wines and a few recommended producers instead.

Sauvignon Blanc has clearly helped establish the country's identity internationally, especially thanks to the likes of Cloudy Bay, though it makes fairly decent Chardonnay as well.

The problem comes when you turn to New Zealand's reds. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot they've produced so far always tends to be on the young, raw and green side. It's a little like an adolescent who hasn't quite decided what she wants to do careerwise yet - though there are one or two wineries that seem to have brought things under control and are now producing Bordeaux blends that give great delight.

More recently, New Zealand has been producing Pinot Noirs that have even the most dedicated Burgundy aficionado taking a second look. The problem is that they have a fair idea that this is the case, and so, for the very best Pinots, the prices are reaching almost extortionate levels. And they've also been doing some sterling work with Riesling - a grape they stand more chance of marketing properly than the Germans currently do.

It's the cool climate more than anything else that makes New Zealand so well suited to the likes of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, helping them achieve the zip and zing in fruit and structure terms that both these grape varieties so desperately crave.

Three wine regions dominate: Marlborough (South Island), Hawkes Bay and Gisborne (both North Island). But there are others, such as Central Otago on the South Island, that are beginning to emerge as strong competitors.